place-guide

A Janus or Devold wool base layer at the Flåm Co-op

The little waterfront shopping building stocks Norwegian wool brands at honest prices; the long-john sets are what locals actually wear under everything from October through May.

Tied to Flåm

The Flåm Co-op building on the waterfront is what locals actually shop at — a small Norwegian-everyday grocery and outdoor-goods store, with a wool corner that carries Janus and Devold at honest prices. Janus has been making merino since 1895 in Espeland outside Bergen; Devold was founded in 1853 in Langevåg on Sula, and the original factory there is now a museum and outlet (production moved abroad in 1989). Their long-john sets — ullundertøy in the classic Norwegian weave — are what most Norwegians wear under everything from October through May, and they are roughly half the cruise-port price right here.

A late-July trip is not the moment to wear merino. It is the moment to buy it for the next twenty winters.

What we plan to look for

One long-sleeve and one bottom in 200-weight Devold merino, in whatever color is on sale.