place-guide

Bakklandet Skydsstation — the old coaching inn

Norway's oldest still-running coaching inn, in the wooden quarter. Traditional dishes, candle-lit rooms, the kind of place that smells like the right kind of woodsmoke.

Tied to Trondheim

Baklandet Skydsstation is the old stagecoach inn in the wooden Bakklandet quarter east of the Nidelva — a crooked ochre-yellow building from 1791, the kind of place that smells like good wood and butter the moment the door opens. The menu is Trøndelag traditional: raspeballer (grated-potato dumplings with cured lamb and rutabaga) on Thursdays, fish soup most days, daily bacalao, and rømmegrøt with cured meats as a starter. The back garden opens in summer.

Mid-range and full of locals at lunch. Reservations help in late July; walking in for an off-peak smørbrød usually works.

What we plan to try

The fish soup the first day. Raspeballer the second if it falls on a Thursday.